by: Ray La Foy

With the advent of technology that makes almost every chore less time consuming, more and more time may now be devoted to enjoying your hobbies. More people can now take on one or several recreational activities like photography, stamp collection, embroidery, handicrafts, etc.

To provide more resources in the growing interest in having fun with hobbies, the web world has yet gave birth to a website that deals with anything about hobbies: hobbiesataglance.com.

This everything about hobbies website has clickable sections regarding hobby supplies, hobby lobby, tower hobbies, collectibles and model trains. It is an online resource center promising hobbie enjoyment, satisfying your hobby needs and assistance in finding hobbies that suit you.

On its hobbies updates and information part, it presents tips on how to find a perfect hobby or hobbies. For those looking for supplies, retailers or suppliers of hobbies materials are also found in this section of the site. If one is looking to buy some hand-made crafts or planning to grow some dough, many for-sale crafts and income-producing hobbies also shared the limelight in this website’s hobbies updates and information segment. On one’s prime years, a wide selection of suitable hobbies for those who already retired is also availed in this portion. Links, directories and forums that discuss and lead to other several crafts or activities that can be done leisurely are also provided here.

This online hobbies spot also unveils a plethora of hobbies supplies resources. Most of the links found here lead to suppliers of excellent materials, indigenous and synthetic, that make the dream hobbies of a lot of people come true. Painting materials, flowers and plants resources, jewelry making supplies and picture framing materials are all available here. Other more unique hobbies like enjoying the nature through non-conventional methods are also supported in this section of the site through providing stuff like portable microscopes. For those more inclined to mechanical or technical hobbies, web pages and other sites on modeling supplies and aircraft materials can also be accessed on this portion of hobbiesataglance.com.

Hobby lobby is another clickable link of this website leads to innumerable stores and shops and their locations with hobbies how-to’s, supplies, workshops and seminars. Craft store catalogs, online coupons and aircraft models may also be seen on this page of updates regarding hobbies. Creative centers, hobby lobby founder, workers and investors are also given ample chance to shine on this fragment of the site. Hobby lobby stores in various States are here too for those looking for their hobby shop within their vicinity.

Those who are into tower hobbies are even given a special spot or link on this hobbies website. Building wireless towers that provide Internet access to a massive number of net users is one major feat. Links on other hobbies sites that deal with tower building, tower materials, and other tower crafts are also placed in this page of the site.

Collectibles like antiques, figurines, stamps, novelty items and other collection-worthy items may also be found here. Resources on where they can be found or bought are piled on this site. Model trains also found their way on one of the links of this all about hobbies web site.

So if you’re just one of those can’t-live-without-my-hobby kind of person, this website is made totally for you.

About The Author

Ray La Foy
Hobbies are Fun. Learn more at http://www.hobbiesataglance.com
win@bizbin.biz

by: Steve Gillman

Which ones can be money making hobbies? A friend made a life-sized cow out of plywood once. He painted it, put it in the yard, and people started asing if he would sell it. He soon had a waiting list of customers for his plywood cows. With a profit of about fifty dollars each, he wasn't getting rich, but isn't making money with your hobby more fun than a job?

Money Making Hobbies - Two Approaches

The first approach is obvious: Look for ways to make money with your existing hobby or hobbies. What do you produce that other people might want? Do you collect dolls? You might produce a newsletter for other doll collectors, or buy and sell doll furniture.

The second approach is to think of all the hobbies you might take up that can generate a second income for you. When I found that I really enjoyed making walking sticks as a hobby, I sold more than a thousand dollars worth one summer. There are probably things you would enjoy doing that can make some money.

Get creative in your thinking. Look at the list of activities or hobbies below, and see if you can think of a way they can be used to make money. Do you like to travel? You might become a tour guide, or write articles for magazines.

Painting ... Crafts of all sorts ... Sewing ... Caring for animals ... Talking ... Playing with computers ... Traveling ... Rock Climbing ... Stamp Collecting ... backpacking

How To Make Money With ANY Hobby

In the past, you could argue that not all hobbies can be money making hobbies. This is no longer true. If you go to my sites, you'll notice the ads. I just copy and paste some code (no selling involved), and make a little bit everytime you click on one. In a matter of days, with almost no money, you can have a website up where you write about your favorite hobby, and collect for the advertising clicks.

About The Author

Steve Gillman has been studying every aspect of money for thirty years. You can find more interesting and useful information on his website; http://www.UnusualWaysToMakeMoney.com.

by: Major Young

DO YOU HAVE HEIRLOOM SILVERWARE THAT’S HIDDEN AND NOT APPRECIATED?

Did mom or grandma pass down her old silverware and it’s stuck in a drawer, closet or attic just waiting to be discovered and used again? Do something with that beautiful flatware, that not only will you appreciate but so will those that see your creation. These handcrafted pieces can make great gifts for family members, not only to wear and enjoy, but to pass down to their children. Sure, that silverware is tarnished, you might even say hopeless, but that’s where the fun begins.

That silverware can be handcrafted into jewelry that will receive compliments that you would never have believed. The jewelry created can range in style from rugged to elegant. Some patterns in silverware are very ornate and make beautiful necklaces, rings or bracelets. The spoon ends can be pounded into a rugged looking pendant for a necklace that works also for the guys when you put that pendant on a heavy leather or hemp cord, You’ll be amazed. Beading can be added for women on either the rugged or classy look and be color coordinated for a great look. You might ask, “How do I turn my flatware into a beautiful piece of jewelry”? Well, let’s see what we can do with your flatware. If your silverware has a wide handle and is very ornate, it can be made into a beautiful pendant for a necklace or a bracelet. If you like a wide ring, that might also be a possibility. If your pieces are narrow with a beautiful design, a ring or bracelet might be the most desirable. Let’s start with a pendant to make that beautiful necklace.

NECKLACE -

1. Buff the handle on a buff wheel. You can get a buff wheel and buffing compound at a local hardware store. Put your buff wheel on your bench grinder and buff away being very careful not to catch the edge of the handle on the wheel. If your silverware is only lightly tarnished, you could just use a cleaning compound. Don’t use any kind of a stripper to remove the darkness down in the crevices of the piece or you’ll lose the character and beauty of the piece.

2. Cut the piece approximately 5/8” longer than needed, that extra length will make the loop that your leather rope will go through to hang the pendant when finished. Now grind that extra length to an even thickness, approximately 1/16” thick, so it will bend easily to form the loop. If it is too wide you can grind some off of the width before you bend the loop. With a fine file, smooth the edges of the ground metal so that it will not mar the leather and will slide easily on the cord.

3. With a set of jewelry pliers with round jaws, bend the complete loop to a size that is bigger than the cord that you will be putting it on. Give the piece a final polishing and it is now ready to put on the cord. You can add beading of your choice or just leave it as is, and you now have a very unique and beautiful necklace.

You can find leather cord and ends, lobster claw clasps, chain and beading at most hobby and craft stores.

RING-

1. Start by buffing the piece of silverware. Now let’s cut the piece to the proper length. A ring sizer, a tapered metal rod with size markings up the side, is very handy to do this task. You can determine your ring size by using a ring that fits you and placing it on the rod. Take your piece of silverware, and at the size you want, put the tip of the piece on the rod and roll the rod one full revolution with the silverware moving but not slipping on the rod. Add ¼” and that will be the length you need for your ring. Cut the piece in two at that point.

2. Grind the bottom side of the piece to an even thickness and a slow taper to the cut end. The thinner the piece is the easier it will be to bend on the metal rod. File the edges of the ground area to a smooth, rounded finish and you are now ready to bend it.

3. A ½” to ¾” wide, 4” long piece of fiber (which is what I use) or a hard wood, such as maple, with a ¾” half moon cut out in the side is good to use to pound the piece into the circle that we want to achieve. With the rod positioned securely in a vice or cradled in a wooden jig, place the piece of silverware over the rod with the half-moon cutout directly over the rod on top of the piece and pound with a hammer. Work your way the length of the piece and it will begin taking shape. You can use a pair of adjustable pliers with leather over the jaws and taped in place to help bend the piece, never use metal tools directly against the silverware as it will scratch or mar the surface. Keep working the metal until you have a true circle and it is the size you want.

4. Now try it on for size, if it fits the way you want give it a final polishing and wear it with pride.

BRACELET-

1. Start by the usual buffing on two of the pieces. If you have a bracelet that fits well, especially if it has a chain on one side and a lobster claw clasp on the other, that will give you a good idea of the shape and length you want to achieve in your creation.

2. I use a 1 ¼” PVC pipe T to bend my silverware on. You can hold the piece with your pliers and bend into a circle or make a clamp on the PVC with a flat piece of steel that’s covered on the clamp side with leather and bolted onto the PVC. Once you have the piece held in place, bend it until you get the shape you want. Bend the second piece the same way.

3. Cut the pieces to the length you want and file to a smooth finish. Drill a 1/16” hole in each end of the two pieces to accommodate the jump rings and smooth the edges of the holes. Use a large jump ring to join the two pieces together. At this point, try the pieces on your wrist and see how they fit. If further adjustment is needed, use your adjustable pliers to get the exact shape you want. At the other ends, you can use a split ring to join the lobster claw clasp to one end and to join a 1” chain to the other. Give it a final polishing and wear with a smile. I hope you have a great time with this project!

A FEW SAFETY TIPS!

1. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES WHEN GRINDING!

2. DIP SILVERWARE IN A CUP OF WATER WHEN IT GETS HOT FROM GRINDING OR BUFFING!

3. BUFF THE PIECE VERTICALLY WITH THE LENGTH OF THE PIECE. IF BUFFING ACROSS THE PIECE, DON’T LET THE LEADING EDGE OF THE PIECE TOUCH THE BUFF WHEEL OR IT CAN GRAB AND THROW THE PIECE!

Copyright 2006 Major Young

About The Author
Major Young

I have always enjoyed woodworking and have found working with the silverware to be equally as enjoyable.

If you have any questions or comments, I would love to hear from you. If you have silverware that is special to you but you have no desire to try this project, contact me and if I can do it for you, I would be happy to. You can contact me through my website.

http://jewelrybymajordesign.com

by: Jason King

You need to do interesting things away from your online dating to attract your soul mate. Your dating interests and hobbies are another weapon in attracting someone's curiosity in you. They want to feel you and your passions so give them something that will spark something in their mind.

If you can get this part of your profile right it can get you e-mails on it's own. Don't do what 90% of other singles do, and just list their hobbies. Or some probably don't even bother with that section. Tell them why you do them and what your hobby does for you. This will give them a better insight into the real you, and what makes you tick.

When your filling our your profile you will get a list on most online dating services where you can tick your hobbies. This is so their search software can match singles up a lot easier when you're filling in the search criteria. This software matches like minded singles up very easily. If enjoy playing the same sports or both like going to the movies it gives them something to instantly match you both up with.

When you get to the part of your profile that you can put in what you want this is where you can make a difference. By this time most singles just want to skip this part, and start searching the profiles. But this is where the dating savvy make their profile stronger, and stand out amongst the crowd. This is where you will add your personality to your profile, and show the singles you're trying to attract that you have a life away from online dating.

This is where you can put the things into your profile that you haven't been asked already. The interests and hobbies that haven't been listed. But don't just list them put something with them that adds interest, and shows the single reading it a part of you.

If you do something that's adrenaline fueled tell them. You might do paragliding. Here's an example of what you can put in your profile...

Once I tried paragliding I knew I would be enjoying it forever. Gliding over the hills with the breeze rushing paste your face gives you a complete sense of freedom. If you ever want to experience that sense of freedom send me an e-mail.

Your description puts a picture in their mind, and they will ask themselves, would I like to do that? It creates something more than just writing paragliding in with a list of other hobbies. If the thought of trying arouses their senses they will contact you.

You can do this with more than just one thing in your profile. Your dating interests and hobbies will have a much better effect on singles than the usual boring stuff people put in their profile. Remember you're trying to attract someone so you have to make them attracted to you through your profile.

For more online dating advice, and online dating reviews visit - http://www.the-online-dating-reviews.com

About The Author
Jason King is the webmaster for The online dating reviews. http://www.the-online-dating-reviews.com.

by: Ian Spencer
Your resume and CV would have one sub-point reserved for ‘Hobbies’. Have you wondered why? Hobbies would often tell the employer what type of a person you are – happy, creative, intense, extrovert, introvert and so on; it would also indicate whether you allow creativity a free hand – a thing that is extremely important in personal and professional growth no matter what field you choose for yourself.

The founder of modern psychiatry, Sigmund Freud had pointed that mental disorders are more often than not the result of unrealized and un-integrated (with life) creativity. People who are normally forced into “successful” and demanding professions often choose to give up their hobbies or leisure time in order to further their career. The demands on their time being such, they rather take rest than indulge in their hobbies whenever a window of free time emerges. When there is no more time for fun, in walks anxiety uninvited and unwanted; and that is always bad news.

Leading psychiatrists are of the opinion that hobbies and leisure time occupations such as watching TV, gossiping with neighbors, walking in a park, learning a new language and so on, actually help your mind and body to de-stress. The process is simple – when you do something you love, your mind would shut off the problems that worry you and revel in the pleasure generated by the activity you enjoy. When your mind is off problems, your body relaxes and your mind is able to think with more clarity. This means you short-circuit an impending anxiety attack and are very likely to find a solution to your problems. Isn’t that called a win-win situation?

Some people know what gives them pleasure to do – and cultivate this activity as a hobby or leisure time occupation. What about people who are undecided about what they would really like to do? If you are surprised at this, don’t. There are many people out there who have never thought about it hard enough to identify what they would like to do for pleasure. Well, finding out is easy. Ask yourself this question, ‘If I had all the money in the world and did not have to work for a living, what work would give me the most pleasure?’ Do not look for one answer – because there would be many swimming in your mind and if you are looking for one answer you would be disappointed enough to stop searching.

Make a list of all the possibilities that pop up in your mind. Stop when you reach at reach at 20. Keep the list where you can see it every day. Give yourself a month to identify what you love to do. In the meantime, take out the list everyday and add or delete suggestions from it, aiming to narrow it down to 10 favorite activities – if you can reduce to less it would be even better. Once you have a list of 10 items prioritize these in order of your preference, the best one first. Now, the list would be do-able. Establish a time at least once a week where you would take up one or more of the activities on your list. Keep doing this until you identify what gives you the most pleasure among them all. Please keep in mind that you could choose more than one hobby.

Here are some examples of creative and fun-filled hobbies:
1. Photography
2. Creative writing – poems, snippets, how-to books, short stories, chicken-soup stuff, memoirs
3. Painting/ learning to paint
4. Drawing cartoons/ animation/ sketching
5. Model building – ships, airplanes, cars, buildings, and the like
6. Traveling to see the world
7. Traveling to learn about different customs and people
8. Historical traveling
9. Traveling to discover the taste of the world – for food lovers
10. Cooking/ baking
11. Stitching/ embroidering/ tailoring
12. Swimming/ skiing/ ice-skating/ any outdoor sport you love
13. Indoor sports – chess, carom, bowling, table tennis, billiards
14. Chatting on the Net
15. Surfing the Net
16. Singing/ playing an instrument/ learning to sing or play an instrument
17. Woodworking/ carpentry
18. Mechanic work/ working on cars, motorcycles
19. Horse riding
20. Training animals

These are only a handful of things you could do. The list is endless. You need to allow yourself enough time to identify the one or two activities that give you the most pleasure. Once you found it out, pour in all efforts to make it a full-time hobby. Ensure that every weekend you have a couple of hours reserved for your ‘battery re-charging time’ when you indulge in your pleasure.

You will find that as you channel your creativity into the chosen hobby(ies) you would feel more relaxed, tolerant of your mistakes and those of others, slower to anger and worry, and more productive. This is because when you are happy, your brain actually works more effectively. As you cannot cry and laugh at the same time, so you would not be able to feel anxious and relaxed at the same time. As your hobby would take root and you discover yourself through it, you would find that your anxiety or panic attacks become lesser and lesser both in intensity and number.


About The Author
Click Here to grab your FREE Stress Relief Manifesto Report.
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It'd show you how you can achieve inner calm and eliminate stress from your life forever. For more information on dealing with anxiety, panic attacks and stress. Visit the anxiety help blog today.
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by: Bill Enslen
Making wonderful glass mosaic tile art is easy! Let me show you how.

The amount of grout for your mosaic project depends on two basic variables: 1) the size of your piece, and 2) the width of your joints. Obviously, smaller joints require less grout. It’s important to mix more than you think you’ll need to ensure you don’t run out. This is especially true when using colored grout to ensure color consistency unless you intend for your piece to have varying shades of grout.

If you have a brand new box of grout, you’ll probably use only a small portion of it. Don’t dump the whole box into a bucket of water! If this is your first time grouting a mosaic, put what you think is enough into your mixing container and then add at least half that amount (i.e., mix about 1.5 times what you think you need). When you’re finished grouting, observe how much you throw away so you can better estimate how much you’ll need for your next project. (You’ll learn from my eBook the approximate amount of grout you’ll need for your project.)

The first rule of mixing grout is to read and follow safety precautions on the bag and then read and follow the label instructions. After reading the bag’s label, go somewhere away from your mosaic so you don’t splash wet grout on it while mixing (e.g., go outside or to the opposite end of the garage). Scoop enough grout powder into your mixing container. Slowly add small amounts of water and mix using a paint stirring stick. Some grout brands are “polymer modified,” which means acrylic latex has already been added to the powder. If the grout already contains the additive, the bag says in easy-to-read print, “polymer modified” or similar words. If the grout doesn’t already contain the additive, then you may choose to mix the grout with an admixture instead of water. As noted in the eBook, I never bother adding acrylic latex for my indoor mosaics. Plain hose water works just fine for me.

Add small amounts of water at a time and thoroughly mix it. Don’t pour in all the water at once. Don’t make the grout too runny by adding too much water. Take your time and mix in a little bit of water at a time. When it’s almost at the right consistency, just a teaspoon more water can be too much. So, take your time.

Don’t make the grout too runny. This is important so let’s say it again together, “Don’t make the grout too runny.” I use thick, pasty grout because it’s easier to wipe off without digging into the joints. The technical reason for not making it runny is that too much water makes the grout weaker and more susceptible to staining. So, thicker is better. My favorite consistency is like thick toothpaste or cookie dough (that’s thick toothpaste, not runny toothpaste). Some books say to make it like pudding or mayonnaise, but that’s too thin for me.

After thoroughly mixing the grout, I use the paint stirring stick to scoop some up and hold it over the container. If it drips off the stick into the container, then it’s way too thin. I like it so it stays in place on the stick and doesn’t droop or sag.

If you accidentally pour in too much water and make the grout too runny, simply add a little more grout powder to thicken it. Add just a teaspoon of grout powder at a time. A small amount of grout powder can change it from runny to just right. If you add too much grout, it’ll be too thick and then you’ll have to add a few drops of water to thin it. You’ll be caught in an endless loop of adding grout to thicken it, then adding water to thin it. So, add small amounts. After your first grout job, you’ll get a feel for how much to add, so it’ll be easier the next time you do this.

When you get the right consistency, thoroughly mix the grout to ensure there’s no remaining powder and no lumps. I like to wipe the sides of the container with the paint stirring stick to get all the powder off the sides. I don’t like any unmixed powder anywhere in the container.

Remember, making mosaic art is easy. You can do it. Yes, you can!


About The Author
Bill Enslen has created glass mosaic art and mosaic tables for 30 years. His new eBook gives you step-by-step details for creating your own mosaic masterpieces. Visit him at http://www.glassmosaictileart.com and read the free sample chapters. Let him show you just how easy it is. With Bill's help, you can do it. Yes, you can! See beautiful stained glass mosaic tabletops at http://www.glassmosaictileart.com/mosaic_table_top_furniture.html

The author invites you to visit:
http://www.glassmosaictileart.com

by: Bill Enslen
Making wonderful glass mosaic tile art is easy! Let me show you how.

Andamento (Italian for “flow”) is the visual movement of your mosaic created by placing tesserae in specific patterns to achieve the desired image (a.k.a. “coursing” your tesserae).

Opus (Latin for “work of art or literary work”) is any work in any creative field, such as literature, architecture, music, and fine art. In our world of mosaic art, opus refers to how we arrange our tesserae. Different opera (the plural of opus) result in different flows. Understanding the various opera allows you to properly plan your work to ensure you achieve the desired look.

The following opera terms are based on Latin. Few people I know, including me, remember two minutes after rading about them what each term means. It doesn’t matter what you call each style. For example, instead of saying “Opus Regulatum,” you can call it “squares aligned like a brick wall.” The point is to be aware of the types of opera, then plan which types give the results you want, and then create your masterpiece accordingly.

This articles merely describes the basic andamento types; whereas, the eBook provides visual examples. Don’t get hung up on the names; simply be aware of the various styles and how your eyes react to each. Plan your work to give the desired flow and effect. I won’t try to describe in art-speak the effect that the eyes see in each opus because your eyes may interpret something completely different than mine. Besides, I never understand so called connoisseurs when they use words like energy, strong, sharp, dynamic movement, and dynamic power to describe a particular opus. I remember a pretentious guy who once told me, “Your lines are crisp and intense, and give the piece a provocative personality.” I confidently responded, “That’s exactly what I was going for,” although I had no idea what he was talking about. I felt I had to acknowledge what sounded like a compliment by pretending to understand his art-speak.

Surf the Internet for mosaic artists, study their work, and note the flow of their tesserae. Pay attention to how each type of flow makes you feel. Associate the flows with the feelings they stimulate in you. Then, plan your own work using the flows for the feelings you hope to evoke in others. Try mixing several types of opera into your work. For example, try using Opus Regulatum for the border, Opus Palladianum for the background, and Opus Sectile for the focal point.

Opus Tesselatum is a square or rectangle pattern with grout lines aligned, such as a checkerboard.

Opus Regulatum is also a square or rectangle pattern but with grout lines staggered like a brick wall. I sometimes use a variation of this opus as a background by enhancing the effect using light tesserae in the center and gradually darkening the tone to the border.

You’ll find inconsistencies with the definitions of tesselatum and regulatum in that some believe they’re reversed. Those who believe as I do have sound justification. For example, the Latin “tessella” means “small square piece of stone.” The Latin “tessellatim” means “in a checkered or tessellated form.” The modern “tessellate” means “arrange in a checkered pattern.” Therefore, I’m comfortable being in the group that defines the two terms as noted above. However, there’s another discrepancy, which is with the spelling of “tesselatum.” Does it have one “l” or two? I use one "l" to stay consistent with the other “...latum” opera described below. Again, it doesn’t matter what you call them or how you spell them as long as you understand that the two styles exist and they each can arouse different feelings when used in mosaics.

Opus Reticulatum is similar to opus regulatum or tesselatum but with slanted lines.

Opus Sectile is either a piece of tessera cut to one specific shape or several tesserae of varying sizes cut to shapes that fit together like puzzle pieces.

Opus Vermiculatum is typically a single row of tesserae following the outline of a focal point or main feature of the mosaic. Some artists use several rows to create the halo effect and add emphasis to the focal point. The background is usually done with a contrasting opus, such as opus regulatum. “Vermis” is Latin for worm, so think of opus vermiculatum as a worm surrounding your focal point.

Opus Musivum is opus vermiculatum extended out to fill the background, either all the way to the borders or to secondary focal points.

Opus Classicum combines opus vermiculatum with opus regulatum or opus tesselatum.

Opus Palladianum uses similar shapes laid in an irregular pattern. In my opinion, triangle like shapes with relatively equal grout spacing works best for this opus.

Opus Circumtactum uses interlocking fan like patterns for the background.

Remember, the eBook gives visual examples of each type of andamento described above, making it so much easier to understand its associated flow.

Making mosaic art is easy. You can do it. Yes, you can! Let me show you how.


About The Author
Bill Enslen has created glass mosaic art and mosaic tables for 30 years. His new eBook gives you step-by-step details for creating your own mosaic masterpieces. Visit him at http://www.glassmosaictileart.com and read the free sample chapters. Let him show you just how easy it is. With Bill's help, you can do it. Yes, you can! See beautiful stained glass mosaic tabletops at http://www.glassmosaictileart.com/mosaic_table_top_furniture.html

The author invites you to visit:
http://www.glassmosaictileart.com

by: Bill Enslen
Making wonderful glass mosaic tile art is easy! Let me show you how.

You’re so anxious to hang your first masterpiece that it seems like the frame store is taking forever finish the frame. Finally, they call to tell you it’s ready for pickup. Wow, they did a great job and the frame makes your mosaic look even better. You can’t wait to hang it on the wall and show it off.

It weighs a ton and you’re nervous wondering whether a 10-penny nail in flimsy drywall can hold all that weight. You wisely decide that the nail must instead go into a wall stud. The last thing you want is your heavy mosaic crashing down, popping off tesserae, breaking the custom frame, and cracking the ceramic floor tile. You find the exact spot for the nail and poke around hoping to find a stud somewhere close to that spot. Oh, no! The nearest stud is six inches to the left. If you install the nail in that stud, the mosaic won’t be centered on the wall and will look terrible. Good grief, now what? Relax. This is easy. In my eBook, we walk step-by-step through the process of adding a solid support system in the wall that’s plenty strong enough to hold your heavy magnum opus. This isn’t rocket science so don’t panic. You can do it. Yes, you can!

If your masterpiece has any size to it, it’s going to be heavy. For example, one of my projects is only 27”x32” but it weighs a whopping 24-pounds. Always be safety conscious. Never create a safety hazard. You must always ensure the support system is adequately strong enough to bear the load of your heavy mosaic.

Some artists don’t hang their pieces because they don’t want to risk a falling hazard that can harm people or damage the piece. They commonly use free standing easels made of sturdy wood, low to the floor, and well-balanced to minimize the risk of tipping. Typically, these easels are used in galleries, but some people use them in their homes. Personally, I’d rather see my mosaics on the wall. To me, they look better and make the home feel cozier. Besides, who has room for several free-standing easels throughout the house?

The complexity of the support system depends on several factors, such as the mosaic’s weight, location of the lag bolt with respect to a wall stud, and safety concerns for your children. For example, if you find that the lag bolt location is just to the side of a wall stud, you may not need an elaborate support system like the one we install in the eBook. Instead, a small piece of 2x4 attached to the side of the stud may be sufficient.

What we install in the eBook is probably the most complex support system you’ll ever need for a hanging mosaic, so once you learn that method, you should be able to install any simpler support system that you might dream up. Remember, this is easy! You can do it. The eBook walks you through each step of the process as if I’m right there in your living room with you. Relax! Don’t worry about cutting a big hole in your drywall. You’ll learn how easy it is to measure, cut the drywall, install a 2x4 support system to the existing studs, replace the drywall, patch it, and paint it--like a pro! It’s easy. You can do it. Yes, you can! Let me show you how.

Remember, making mosaic art is easy. You can do it. Yes, you can!


About The Author
Bill Enslen has created glass mosaic art and mosaic tables for 30 years. His new eBook gives you step-by-step details for creating your own mosaic masterpieces. Visit him at http://www.glassmosaictileart.com and read the free sample chapters. Let him show you just how easy it is. With Bill's help, you can do it. Yes, you can! See beautiful stained glass mosaic tabletops at http://www.glassmosaictileart.com/mosaic_table_top_furniture.html

The author invites you to visit:
http://www.glassmosaictileart.com

by: Bill Enslen
Making wonderful glass mosaic tile art is easy! Let me show you how.

Which type of adhesive is best for mosaics? It depends on your base material, mosaic method, whether you’re working horizontally on a table or vertically on a wall, whether your mosaic is exposed to moisture, and personal preference.

Many websites and articles say Weldbond is the best adhesive for indoor mosaics and that it’s the preferred glue of professional mosaic artists worldwide. I’m the kind of guy who likes to ask, “Why?” I’m compelled to dig deeper, so my question is: What makes Weldbond so much better than other polyvinyl acetate (PVA) glues (commonly known as white glue), such as Elmer’s Glue All? If you’re like me, you wonder, “Why do so many mosaic websites say Weldbond is the best mosaic glue, but none of them fully explain what makes it better or why it’s better?” I don’t know, maybe one mosaic artist heard something about Weldbond and regurgitated it to another artist without knowing the chemical facts. Maybe a mosaic supply salesman makes a bigger profit selling a 4-ounce bottle of Weldbond for $4.50 than a 7.5-ounce bottle of Elmer’s for only $1.50.

Let’s think about it. White glues are made from PVA emulsions. All basic PVA emulsions have the same properties: water-based, odorless, easy clean-up, colorless, relatively non-toxic, water resistant (not waterproof), and not too heat resistant compared to other adhesives.

Varieties of PVA glues can be developed by adding small amounts of materials to improve specific characteristics. For example, simple clay can improve the glue’s high temperature strength. However, the differences in varieties aren’t that great because if too much extra material is added, the glue’s adhering properties unacceptably weaken.

I tried to determine the chemical properties of Weldbond and Elmer’s, but I couldn’t find anything that fully defines the ingredients. The Elmer’s website says their ingredients are proprietary, so I assume Weldbond’s ingredients are also proprietary. I also couldn’t find independent laboratory test results that define Weldbond’s shear strength, adhesion strength, and cohesion strength. (The key word is “independent.”) Same for Elmer’s. Therefore, I couldn’t compare the two to determine if one truly is stronger than the other in shear, adhesion, and cohesion strength.

For our indoor mosaic applications, do we really care if one brand is stronger than the other by a ga-zillion Pascals? (A Pascal is a unit of pressure equivalent to one Newton per square-meter.) I don’t think so. For example, do we care that one brand might support the weight of two elephants while the other brand might support only one? Of course not. All we care about is if the glue can effectively hold a small piece of glass tessera that weighs less than an ounce to our base material without extreme external forces acting on it (e.g., forces such as walking on it or beating it with a hammer). So, in terms of strength, how do we choose whether to use Weldbond or Elmer’s for our simple, light-duty, indoor, mosaic art application? The answer is easy--perform our own unscientific experiment.

Read the eBook to see the details and results of my experiment and learn which brand performed better. You’ll be surprised at the results. The eBook also explains more about PVA glue, so you’ll understand whether it’s possible to manufacture one brand significantly better than another brand. So, the question still remains: For our indoor glass mosaic art, is it worth it to spend $4.50 for a 4-ounce bottle of Weldbond instead of $1.50 for a 7.5-ounce bottle of Elmer’s? Read the eBook!

Remember, making mosaic art is easy. You can do it. Yes, you can!


About The Author
Bill Enslen has created glass mosaic art and mosaic tables for 30 years. His new eBook gives you step-by-step details for creating your own mosaic masterpieces. Visit him at http://www.glassmosaictileart.com and read the free sample chapters. Let him show you just how easy it is. With Bill's help, you can do it. Yes, you can! See beautiful stained glass mosaic tabletops at http://www.glassmosaictileart.com/mosaic_table_top_furniture.html

The author invites you to visit:
http://www.glassmosaictileart.com